The benefit of this is two-fold; firstly, you will save money on certain equipment and secondly, you will have a better understanding on how certain pieces of paranormal equipment actually works.
I have been involved with electronics for years, both professionally (my last job of 8 years was as an engineer in a Fire Protection company) and as a hobby. I have spent most of the past few months during the pandemic building equipment for my own group ready for when restrictions are lifted and we can get back to doing what we do.
Most of the projects will be pretty easy to do with a basic knowledge of how to solder. You will also need some basic DIY skills like drilling, glue gun use and using a multi-tool. I will explain the circuits and how they work, and supply any relevant circuit diagrams (schematics) and anything else to make the project as easy to understand as possible. I will also include a list of materials you will need. The price of these will vary to where you source them from, but I will also give some guidelines on where you can look at from a regional point of view.
For our first project, and as relevant to another post I am active in on the forum, we are going to look at building a basic EM Pump. These typically retail anywhere up from $30.00 new. This one will cost under $15.00 (£13.00) to build, cheaper if you already have some of the items, or can source cheaper.
An EM Pump is a device that works by using a DC motor to propel a magnet at high speed, forcing the natural magnetic fields into one that oscillates (varies in magnitude, or position, in a regular manner about a central point). Through this action, it radiates a strong electromagnetic field (EMF), that can be noted with a K2 or other EMF meter, that has been theorised to help attract entities, and assists them to communicate better as it 'boosts' their own energies. It is similar to the theory of equipment battery power drainage by an entity to gain more energy to enable communication (by communication, I do not mean this literally. Communication can be in the broader forms of disembodied voices, movement of objects, cold spots, thrown objects, etc). EM Pumps are used by numerous investigative groups to assist in receiving more frequent Class A EVPs and a handy piece of equipment to have in your arsenal.
Materials you will need:
1 x Small Project box 100mm x 60mm x 25mm (eBay.com 373444820404 $4.38 - eBay.co.uk 293225702731 £3.99).
1 x 3V DC Motor. If you have an old CD drive, the eject tray motor is ideal for this project. Otherwise you need to sorce a similar unit (eBay.com 233803707121 $2.71 - eBay.co.uk 264897791377 £2.29)
1 x 3V (IMPORTANT!) 5mm LED - any colour (eBay.com 391733543929 $2.05 - eBay.co.uk 391733543929 £1.48; supplied lowest quantity x10)
1 x 5mm LED Bezel holder (eBay.com 253132628768 $1.77 - eBay.co.uk 253132628768 £1.29)
1 x Mini Black On/Off Rocker Switch (eBay.com 293639673460 $1.75 - eBay.co.uk 251390016446 £0.99)
1 x AA*2 cell Open Battery Holder (eBay.com 193845076507 $1.45 - eBay.co.uk 281526522654 £1.69)
1 x Rare-Earth (Neodymium) Ring Magnet (eBay.com 181693054050 $2.54 - eBay.co.uk 181693054050 £1.85; supplied lowest quantity x2)
You will also need:
2 x AA Batteries
Small core electronic cable (red and black, or any other colour of choice)
Small bore heat-shrink tubing (to fit cable) or electrical tape
Hot Glue Gun with glue sticks
Drill and bits
Multi-tool (optional - makes life easier for cutting out the hole for the switch)
Fine file set (optional - also known as a hobby file set)
Masking (Decorators) Tape
Rule or tape measure
Let's get started:
1. Use masking tape to cover the lid. Mark the vertical and horizontal center-lines using the rule and pen/pencil. From the horizontal center-line, measure down 15mm and make a mark on the vertical center-line (LED drill point). Measure down another 15mm and place another mark (switch cut-out top point). From this point, place a mark another 12mm down (switch cut-out bottom point). Now draw a rectangle 8mm wide (4mm either side of the vertical center-line) by 12mm, intersecting both the top and bottom point markers.
2. Drill an 8mm hole at the first marking you made. This is for the LED bezel mount.
3. Cut out the 12mm x 8mm rectangle below the hole you just drilled. The easiest way to do this is with a multi-tool (Dremel). Cut to the inside of the lines you drew, and then finish off opening up to the correct size using a small, flat hobby file.
4. Mount the LED bezel and the switch into the lid (push and snap in). Place the LED into the bezel, pushing all the way in until the rim of the LED meets the base of the bezel (be careful not to damage the legs of the LED), and place the lid to one side after removing the masking tape (Top tip: use a bit of WD40 on a clean cloth to remove any adhesive that remains from the tape). Fire up your glue gun and soldering iron.
5. If your motor comes without wires pre-attached, attach a red wire to the motor's +ve tab, and a black wire to the -ve tab (the tabs should be identified either + or -). Wires need to be about 15cm long each.
6. We have to mount the magnet onto the shaft of the motor at a right-angle, and as straight as possible. Trying to mount directly to the shaft is difficult. We found it easier to make a little 'platform' out of a piece of thick plywood (you could use plastic) and then mount the magnet to that before mounting to the motor. We also used superglue to fix the 'platform' to the motor shaft after fixing the magnet centrally, and squarely, with hot glue. Ensure the magnet freely rotates once done.
7. Now everything is ready, let's build the unit up.
8. Using hot glue, mount the motor on its side so that the magnet is pointing down towards the box center, and centered along the box width, but not so it touches the end wall of the box (it will make a hideous noise when the motor runs). Build up the hot glue to secure the motor firmly in place. The motor wires should be run out to the left as looking at the unit in the box and retained in place (along the 'corner' run) with spots of hot glue to about the half-way point of the box length.
9. Take the 2xAA battery holder and glue it base down, with cabling running out to the left again, into the box along the bottom width (batteries will face up towards the lid).
10. Solder three wires (red if colour coding) to the switch mounted in the lid, one on one of the two legs, and two on the other. Two cables should be around 10cm in length, the other one long enough to run to the LED's LONG leg (Anode). The short wire and a long wire should go together on one leg of the switch, with the remaining long wire on the other leg. Insulate the solder joints with some electrical tape.
11. Solder a black wire (if colour coding) to the SHORT leg (Cathode) of the LED. You can cut this leg down a little more before soldering the cable on so it will fit into the box without hanging down too far. Use a piece of heat shrink tube, or electrical tape, to insulate the joint and visible leg. The wire should be around 10cm long.
12. Solder the SHORT wire from the switch leg (with two wires on) to the LONG leg of the LED. Again, you can cut this leg down a little more (to the same length as the Cathode) before soldering the cable on and use a piece of heat shrink tube, or electrical tape, to insulate the joint and visible leg.
13. Now, adjusting the cable lengths where required to make a neat finish, take the RED wire from the battery box and join it to the SINGLE long red wire from the switch. This is your power supply feed for the circuit. Use a piece of heat shrink tube (put on cable before soldering the joint) to insulate the joint, or use electrical tape.
14. Take the remaining long red wire (on same leg as the short wire) and join this to the red wire to the motor. Use a piece of heat shrink tube (put on cable before soldering the joint) to insulate the joint, or use electrical tape.
15. Take all three black wires and joint them together. Again, use a piece of heat shrink tube (put on cable before soldering the joint) to insulate the joint, or use electrical tape.
That's it! Add a couple of AA batteries to the holder and turn your switch on. Check that the LED illuminates and the motor/magnet spins before turning off. Do a little bit of cable management (using hot glue to hold wires in place where needed) to ensure that when the lid is fitted, wires do not go anywhere near the rotating magnet. Fit your lid and you are good to go.
To see the effects of the EM Pump, you can use a K2 or analogue/digital EMF meter. Take a reading around the pump in the 'off' position. You will notice a reading close to the device due to the magnet. Turn the device on and see those readings fly off the chart!
I am looking at building another one of these units within the next 2-3 weeks. As I do it, I will make a video on the build and post a link to it.
Other projects we will cover in this forum are:
- SLS (Structured Light sensor) camera - the infamous 'stick man' capture device
- Spirit box with autoscan and reverb
- Charge meter - indicates positive and negative charge changes in the atmosphere
- Homemade ITC 'Ovilus' device
- And any other devices we develop (e.g. we are currently working on a schematic for interactive light boards)